Can Japanning Be Repaired On An Old Plane
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This "Bench Plane Restoration Guide" is role one of several parts and posts of a serial on the practice'due south and don'ts of restoring a vintage Bench Plane and other vintage hand tools.
By: Don Wilwol (Edited 9-2020) (Edited ten-2020) (Edited 01-2022)
Role two of the Bench Airplane Restoration Guide is here
Run across my restoration youtube video playlist series here
ALWAYS KNOW EXACTLY WHAT Yous Accept Earlier YOU START.
- Quickly Place Your Hand Plane
- TO RESTORE A Manus Aeroplane OR TO NOT RESTORE A HAND PLANE.
Then, I bought this bunch of planes in a pile which is shown with all the other weekend finds. Included at the bottom of the pile was this Millers Falls #10.
Note: This Demote Airplane Restoration Guide is not a suggestion to strip every or any mitt airplane and repaint. I actually would propose otherwise if the japanning is in reasonable condition. Some are non savable and I don't similar tools that look terrible. If you lot can save it, I'd recommend that. If not, strip it.
This Bench Plane Restoration Guide is also a restoration method meant for user type tools, not valuable antiques. In that location are several article in this series. It'southward a bit complicated, but start with a tools that'southward less valuable and always beginning with the least invasive way to go your desired results. Ever let the tool be the guide, restoration is Non a "one size fits all" type of technique.
I'g non a fan of soaking mitt planes in annihilation except cleaning solutions.
AND I will NEVER again put a airplane in vinegar.
I hope you will learn from my mistake. Vinegar has a place in some tool restoration, only not hand planes in my opinion. I've met to many who have used it over and over until information technology finally ruined a nice hand plane. I just talk to another old fourth dimension tool dealer that had been using vinegar for years. The start plane he ruined after years of use was a dainty early on Hahn.
Vinegar is used in knife making to rust steel and strength patina–>
_______________________
See these additional manufactures as well
This is the method I prefer when it'due south possible to apply –> . A no-soak procedure. I restore a plane without using any derusting liquids
And if yours just needs a good tune up, endeavour this.
Making a bench aeroplane tote
TO RESTORE A HAND PLANE OR TO Non RESTORE A Mitt Aeroplane.
RESTORATION OF JAPANNED PLOW PLANES – BY DON BOSSE.
Mark Webster's hand plane restoration method
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I figured since this plane needed almost anything a plane restore could demand, I would expand on it a bit and talk about my methodology for metal bench plane restoration, because when I pulled information technology from the pile it looked similar this.
First I should note that you may find the occasional motion-picture show from another aeroplane restore. I'm not trying to trick anyone, merely become the details in and I can't guarantee I accept all the pictures I need from the Millers Falls #ten. A lot of my before planes are Stanley's, but I have to admit I accept a sort of soft spot for the good Millers Falls planes and am an avid collector of Sargent.
A Bench Aeroplane restoration Guide Important Note:
Always clean before deciding to strip the japanning or not. Who would have though thought this:
Would only clean up with a soft wire brush and degreasers
This is a airplane that a simple clean upward was all that was needed.
First I take it all autonomously and put the parts in a plastic container. That to keep all the parts together equally best as i can. I tend to accept multiple projects happening in my shop, and since I don't practice this for a living, its possible i don't get back for a few days or a week. I don't want to have to remember where I put the parts. I and then stand for a minute to contemplate what to start on first.
The decisions are usually based on mood more than a real process.
Lets talk about the japanning. I'm a firm believer in leaving the japanning on an older plane if it's reasonable. It could increase the value of the plane, only a lot of the planes I find the japanning is shot. Determining what to do side by side will take some trial and mistake if you've never done it, only hither is what I utilise.
If you're not going to repaint, information technology's a adept idea to requite the japanned areas a couple of coats of shellac, or Fluid Picture
Always first with a good cleaning. A good cleaning fluid like Simple Green works wonders. If it'southward extremely greasy and grimy you can soak it in your favorite parts cleaner. (note this is different than soaking it in a derusting solution). I often usa diesel fuel.
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Although I'1000 no longer a fan of any process that requires submersing a aeroplane in a liquid (usually acid or derusting solution) I've left them here because they do have a place as long as the restorer understands the dangers, and in some instances the plane can exist so bad the advantages may outweigh the dangers. Information technology's besides possible to utilise this guide for other tools not quite equally sensitive as cast fe hand planes. I much prefer the no-soak process. I restore a airplane without using whatever derusting liquids
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Electrolysis. (click here for my full electrolysis instructions) Its a a great procedure and volition get rid of the rust, or at least make it piece of cake to castor off. The draw backs are this. It takes a little time. You demand to get it set up and it typically takes over night for virtually planes. You need a plastic container big plenty for the piece your de-rusting and you need a battery charger. I will guarantee once you've used it you volition keep if you plan to practice this often. AND, it'south not the best solution for hand plane restorations.
See Al's blog for farther instructions.
Why electrolysis may exist the all-time option if yous feel you MUST employ a soaking solution: Electrolytic derusting By Ted Kinsey
I nonetheless prefer using the "no soak" method, but if you lot are compelled to submerge your hand planes in a liquid, electrolysis is still the best.
I thought I'd post an update. I struggled with this a little. It always took to long so I never really bothered with it. Somewhere threw another conversation I mentioned I had a new battery charger and it didn't seem to piece of work right for electrolysis. Some other LJ suggested putting a bombardment inline between the charger and the vat. What a difference. I had a dead garden tractor battery so I stuck it inline. In only seconds an erstwhile rusty block aeroplane created this reaction.
Those are bubbles you run into.
In the morning information technology looked like this
Evapo-rust. (Not A RECOMMENDED Process FOR Nearly HAND PLANES) Sold at some Tractor Supply'due south and internet sites. Its $20 a gallon so its more than expensive than electrolysis. A gallon volition practice a quit a few plane and other tools though. Just set the slice in it and allow it set over dark. Once again the rust will either wipe off or wire brush correct off the next day.
To utilize evapo-rust, you can use a plastic tote like the electrolysis, or I fabricated an aluminum tray out of flashing material. Its narrower and so information technology takes less to cover the airplane. I can besides tilt it in 1 direction so its deeper on one end.
VERY Of import Demote PLANE RESTORATION GUIDE Annotation. Make SURE THE WHOLE PIECE IS COVERED. EVAPO-RUST Will Get out AN ETCH MARK AT THE WATER LEVEL THAT WILL NOT Easily COME OUT!
Evaporust also changes the color of the metal. If y'all're ok with that, and then go ahead and use information technology. Yes you can remove the discoloration by some mechanical means, merely that defeats the purpose and yous could just use the mechanical ways in the commencement place. If you must use a dipping method, utilize electrolysis.
I also made a wire basket for the smaller parts.
This is what the Millers Falls looked like when it came out of the evapo-rust. I had hopes I could relieve the japanning, but at that place was to much rust nether the japanning that I didn't see until it was lifted.
Sand Blasting. My favorite for planes that yous know you need to paint. I bought a $30 sand diggings gun at amazon.com and haven't looked back. Again, I try to exit the japanning if I can, but if it needs painting this is the way to become. Screened play sand will work just fine, but I bought some aluminum oxide blasting grit which works a little better. Don't be afraid to stick with the play sand for a while. It does a fine job. The drawback of sand blasting is you demand a decent air compressor.
EDIT: I've noticed recently the
Sand Blasting Guns
are even cheaper at Amazon.
I knew it needed to be painted, and then lets interruption out the sand blaster.
EDIT: I've since updated my sandblaster. I have no complains about the one above and it served me well for the price, but this 1 from Harbor freight worked a bit better.
I also created a pocket-size blasting cabinet. Yous tin re-use the media and it keeps information technology contained. Plus it doesn't become all over my shop.
Notation most of it is plastic except for a piece of glass in the forepart. That'south so it'due south easier to wipe off and run into through. The bottom is open so I set information technology on my demote on a flat piece of steel (plywood would work too) to catch the sand. Note the 2 hand holes in the front. What you cannot meet is the peak. I have 2 holes drilled in a piece of plywood. 1 is for the air hose. The other is for a shop vac. When using play sand for media, it helps to suck the dust out so you can see.
It takes me thirty-forty minute to setup and clean a base of operations using the Sand Equalizer. Obviously doing 2 or iii at one time is quicker.
Edit 7-2013. Another Sandblasting upgrade. It works ameliorate than I anticipated. I like it a lot. Its highly recommended.
I still utilise an old chisel to scrape the apartment parts first. It's a petty quicker, but the sandblaster does the residual.
Take a wait at my #8c restore for more picture of earlier and after sandblasting.
Edit 7-2013
*Citric Acid
(NOT A RECOMMENDED PROCESS FOR MOST HAND PLANES)
*. I finally ordered some Citric Acrid
Note the citric acrid won't strip the japanning, and then information technology can be used like evapo-rust for de-rusting the planes you detect that y'all'll be saving the existing japanning. I honey finding those!!
Edit 9-2016. & 6-2017** Caution** Be very careful with citric acid. Make sure you empathize the risk with acid based soaks. I've seen many tools ruined with acid. And I will never de-rust a blade(iron) with acrid. See this article that bear witness what acid can do.
Whatever type of Acid should be a last resort and merely after you sympathize what it tin can practice to your tool. I don't beleive any tool of smashing value should exist soaked in acrid.
The Works 
I utilize this stuff when I'grand in a hurry. It removes rust quick. In less than an hour most of the time. It'due south a little harsh, and not near every bit environmentally friendly as citric acid, but if you lot desire quick results it will work.
The other note though, you'll want to use The Works
outside. Simply the fumes will rust anything close if you leave it effectually for a while. Make certain you wash the parts off well.
I use it for small parts more than whole planes, but it'll work for either
The old way way . Wire brushes and scrapers and screw drivers and sand paper and whatever else you have to work the stuff off. This is the safest style, and should exist your choice.
*Paint stripper
Paint stripper will work if added to "the old way way" above. It will usually take a few applications. I have used it but for me its messy and time consuming. Once again, if you are only going to do a few planes, it may a choice.
Side by side you will want to wire brush the frog then y'all can paint them together. I don't have a picture wire brushing the frog, but yous will want a
grade wire bicycle
and a
fine wire bike
similar this one:
Important warnings about wire wheels. Outset, wire wheels tin scratch metals. I've never had a trouble using a wire wheel on a cast iron plane, only E'er test the aeroplane your going to wire bike and continue with caution. Using a wheel to course or being to aggressive can cause undesired results. But start ho-hum and keep with caution. If you sense a scratch pattern, either switch to a finer bike or use less force.
Always vesture middle protection when using a wire wheel od whatsoever kind !!
Next, make certain you hang on to your pieces well. Its easy to allow the wheel to throw pieces across the room. Worst case you suspension it, other times yous only loose them.
There is usually a little hand work on the frog also. I have some larger and smaller wire brushes I use. Use what e'er works for y'all. I as well have a drove of wire brushes for the drill. I will use whatever works.
Of course If your sandblasting the bed, the frog can be hands sandblasted every bit well.
Razor Blade or scraper (A recommended solution)
Another great way to remove heavy rust is a razor blade or paint scraper. I often use a utility knife blade held in a pair of vise grips. I besides use a scraper similar this one.
An one-time chisel for scraping the old japanning as well works well. It will slow the chisel chop-chop, so make certain it's an old one yous don't care much nearly.
Information technology's typically easier on the frog to tape off the areas to not be painted. If the base hasn't been cleaned upward I don't bother, simply If I accept the balance of the base consummate, I'll mask it with painter record.
Adjacent pigment it. Wipe information technology down with mineral spirits or pigment thinner to go all the dust off it. I use
Dupli-Color DE1635 Ceramic Ford Semi-Gloss Black Engine Pigment
I find the Dupli-Color to be a little closer to the original terminate. What I like nearly the Dupli-Color Engine Enamel is you lot re-coat after ten minutes. I usually let it sit for fifteen minutes and add a coat. I volition requite it 4 or 5 coats.
Alert you can non re coat if you wait longer than about i hour though. If it starts to fix the fresh paint volition crusade the semi dry out paint to pare and roll upwardly. If you need to repaint wait 7 days equally described on the tin can.
NOTE: If y'all want to try traditional japanning, here is a very very good serial, http://lumberjocks.com/JayT/blog/series/5621
Ane other note, some Dupli paint suggest baking it on. Be careful heating cast. I'd hate to hear you lot warped your airplane repainting it. What I link to to a higher place does not have whatever baked on requirements.
Mask off all of the machined surfaces before painting. This is tough stuff to remove after it is cured. I recommend removing the tape near an hour later the concluding coat goes on. Pull the record off at an astute angle to the surface and so it doesn't pull the paint away. If you lot wait until it is fully cured, the paint edges won't be as sharp.
I try to paint the frog and base at the same fourth dimension but to save time.
I may take the fork off if it comes autonomously easily. I pigment the fork likewise. Most of the time I volition get out it intact instead of risking breaking the frog when taking information technology off.
Be conscientious. Some of the pins are peened especially on Sargent made planes. It is pretty easy to suspension the casting if you are not careful removing the pin.
Side by side Shine the sides of the base. You can employ a chugalug sander if it needs information technology, but exist very conscientious. It's piece of cake to go to far to quick. I take done a few by hand sanding, but I observe most can be cleaned upwardly well enough with the wire bicycle . It really depends on how much shine you're looking to get. I like the flat luster from the wire wheel.
Run the wire wheel with the lines in the sides. If the plane is earlier with the lines, I even so recommend running the wheel in a horizontal direction. (Don't use a cycle grade enough to scratch the plane. E'er examination it and don't utilize aggressive pressure.
Brand certain you've seen the discussion on the unlike techniques such every bit belt sanding and wire bicycle cleaning.
Flatten the frog. File the frog flat
with a flat file
. It actually doesn't matter if y'all exercise this earlier or afterwards painting. I unremarkably wind up doing it after. I lock it in a vise and hold the file flat while filing information technology. It doesn't need to be perfect. Some like to polish this as well, but its not really necessary.
Y'all can utilise a wooden vise or a metal vise with padded jaws. Here I have aluminum over the jaws to protect the frog'south cast.
Check and fix the cap iron. First thing I do is wire brush it. Information technology should be re-rusted by now with whatsoever you decided, or you tin can just wire brush information technology. I find I volition wire brush information technology first, so throw it in the evapo-rust if It all the same needs a little aid. You can also touch on information technology to a chugalug sander to shine it upward a bit if needed. I go into more than item here.
Sharpen information technology After cleaning upwards the fe (but like the cap atomic number 26) you'll need to sharpen information technology. How I go about that process is described here.
Smooth or repair the chip breaker. The process is described hither.
Flatten the sole.
See "How flat does my smoother sole need to be?"
I flatten either on a piece of granite or my cast fe table saw summit with sanding belts that accept been cut. I usually use used belts, although new ones will obviously exist faster.
Its best to have the aeroplane completely assembled (at least when finishing) when flattening. If you have a lot of flattening to do, starting with just the sole is ok. You'll find only a pocket-sized veriation when you put it back together, if anything at all. I advise putting it together when you lot become close.
Bench Aeroplane Restoration Guide Part 2 is here.
If you lot institute this helpful delight think about helping with a pocket-sized donation
Can Japanning Be Repaired On An Old Plane,
Source: https://www.timetestedtools.net/2016/01/26/bench-plane-restoration-guide-part-1/
Posted by: cudneybegile.blogspot.com
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